bgh: grey suit

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How to Wear a Double Breasted Blazer

1. A Bolder Peak

Every suit featured here has a peak lapel (rather than a notch). It's a crucial part of the bigger personality of the DB.

2. A Wider Lapel

The rules of double-breasted are different. Get used to a wider lapel than on your single-breasteds. That's part of what gives you that updated 1970s vibe you're after.

3. Six Buttons, of Course

We're classicists on this front: In almost every case, we like a six-button jacket. To see the one exception, check page 175.

4. That Tweaked Shape

The key to the DB's macho look is strong shoulders that taper to a narrow waist. If your jacket looks too boxy, have a tailor take in the sides.

5. A New, Shorter Length

The DB looks fresh once again because designers have modernized the cut, truncating the length of the jacket for this 2011 take on the look.

Suit, $1,820,and shirt, $395, bySimon Spurr.Tie, $68by Tommy Hilfiger.Shoes, $1,250by John Lobb.Pocket squareby Seize sur Vingt.Watchby Jaeger-LeCoultre.

source: GQ.com

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Fall/Winter 2011-2012 Men's Fashion Trends - Grey Anatomy

izandrew fall winter 2011 2012 menswear fashion

photo:Swide

Colours are high and to be chosen and mixed, however some more neutral hues made their statement on stage and should be easily followed by smarty guys on the street. Various shades of grey to layer on top of each other underline elongated silhouettes and reveal some serious masculine talks. Twisted by a wide lapel, or a double button closing option, it all has to be shown with a very dark touch, a tousle hair style or some hard shaped frames.

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Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2011-2012 Menswear

A master of progression, Raf Simons takes the Jil Sander man on a journey from spring’s colorful bursts of color and narrow proportions to boxy shapes and darkness. Throwing in a subtle shift of texture and oversize pocket details, Simons’ knack for refined but simple tailoring gets a powerful kick of subdued quirk for a collection that is undeniably Jil Sander.

Tim Blanks review

Raf Simons claimed he wanted to go back to the roots of Jil Sander's menswear for Fall. He was thinking about the reduction, the purity, the very specific fabrics, and even the Amish influence on those early days. But ultimately, it was his own take on the elements that constitute "Jil Sander" that determined the nature of the collection.

Intriguingly, Simons designed without a single piece of clothing from the archive in his studio, which is probably why the most immediate cross-reference was his own Spring womenswear for Jil. For his women's show, he talked about "a mille-feuille of color." Here, it was subtly adapted, particularly in the doubled turtlenecks. Pink lined a parka hood, yellow shone from under a swirling charcoal coat. The experimental volumes of the women's clothes were toned down but still implied, for instance, in the caped back of a blouson. And the chunky parkas that cut such a dash last season made a welcome reappearance. So that was the Raf-ness of the show.

The Jil-ness came through in the plain, felted square-cut suits—three buttons, high closing. They were paired with similarly shaded tops and, even when colored broom yellow or cyclamen, they had a distinctly sober air. Simons elaborated on the sobriety by using the quilting of the Amish as the signature detail for jackets, pants, and tops. On the other hand, he injected an ironic note by duplicating the nobility of the handcrafted Amish tradition with the most advanced fabric technology. That's where Raf-ness and Jil-ness reunited—and it felt so good.

source: Style.com/