How to Wear a Double Breasted Blazer

 

1. A Bolder Peak

Every suit featured here has a peak lapel (rather than a notch). It's a crucial part of the bigger personality of the DB.

2. A Wider Lapel

The rules of double-breasted are different. Get used to a wider lapel than on your single-breasteds. That's part of what gives you that updated 1970s vibe you're after.

3. Six Buttons, of Course

We're classicists on this front: In almost every case, we like a six-button jacket. To see the one exception, check page 175.

4. That Tweaked Shape

The key to the DB's macho look is strong shoulders that taper to a narrow waist. If your jacket looks too boxy, have a tailor take in the sides.

5. A New, Shorter Length

The DB looks fresh once again because designers have modernized the cut, truncating the length of the jacket for this 2011 take on the look.

Suit, $1,820,and shirt, $395, bySimon Spurr.Tie, $68by Tommy Hilfiger.Shoes, $1,250by John Lobb.Pocket squareby Seize sur Vingt.Watchby Jaeger-LeCoultre.

 source: GQ.com

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How to Tie a Tie : The Half Windsor Knot

The half-Windsor knot, also known as the single Windsor knot, is a way of tying a necktie which produces a neat, triangular knot. It is larger than the four-in-hand knot and Pratt knot but smaller than the Windsor knot. The half-Windsor is derived from the full Windsor in that it is only brought up around the loop on one side rather than both. It works well with light- and medium-weight fabrics.

The Half Windsor knot

To tie the half-Windsor, place the tie around your neck and cross the broad end of the tie in front of the narrow end. Fold the broad end behind the narrow end and bring it forward on the opposite side. The left and right sides of the narrow end, and the inside of the loop around your neck, form a triangle. Continue folding the tie over the sides of this triangle, rotating around the triangle in one direction. The sixth fold should bring the broad end up over the top of the knot from behind; push the end down through the loop in front of the knot between the fourth and fifth folds, work out any wrinkles, and pull the knot tight. If the tie is unbalanced, untie the knot and try again giving yourself more or less length to work with. The steps are: Start with the wide end of the tie on your right and extending a foot before the narrow end, Cross wide end over narrow and turn back underneath, Bring it up and turn it down through the loop, Pass the wide in from the front, from the left and to the right, Then, end up through the loop, and put it down through the knot in the front, tighten the knot carefully and draw it up to the collar.

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How To Wear A Mens Vest

D&G Spring/Summer 2010

• A vest must cover the waistband. No belt buckle should show. This adds girth (the appearance of weight) and directs the eye straight to the waist.
• The bottom button is meant to be left undone.
• If there's an X across the middle when buttoned, the vest is too tight.
• Yes, you can wear a vest with t-shirt. Leave it unbuttoned and wear it a size or two larger.
• Add some flair to the plain short sleeve button up with a vest and skinny tie.
• Avoid the white and black combo.

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How to Ensure Your Suit Fits

A great fabric, a great cut and first-class construction count for nothing if a suit doesn't fit. Unfortunately there's nothing innate about knowing when a suit fits (although if the trousers fall down, or won't do up, that's a clue) so we went to Brioni, the Italian tailoring brand famous for its handmade clothes, to ask Mr Antonio Pipitone what he looks for in a suit when he's judging whether or not it's right. He ran us through the mental checklist he uses when trying on suits.


Puddling

This term refers to the single most common problem - having trousers that are too long. The key rule is this: they should break once above the front of the shoe - any more and they're too long.

 Collar Gap

One of the first things that aficionados look for in a jacket is whether its collar adheres to the shirt collar, and how well the two elements align. Mind the gap.

 Waist

A jacket that's too large in the waist will lack shape, making the wearer look bigger than he really is. However, wearing a jacket that's too tight and pulls around the waist will also make you look fat.

 Shoulder Width

An over-sized jacket, with shoulders that extend beyond the wearer's shoulders, will make you look like a 1930s gangster if the shoulders are structured, and a boy in his father's suit if they sag.

 Sleeve Lenght
 Although we understand that there are regional differences at play here, jacket sleeves aren't meant to reach your knuckles, because if they do they make a man look like a nightclub bouncer

source:mrporter.com/

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Spring/Summer 2011 Men's Fashion Trends - The Biker Jacket

Perhaps the biggest factor is the ageing of looks from previous seasons, in particular the military trend. This trend has been with us for the last couple of years now, with varying degrees of popularity, but during A/W10 it reached its peak, the market is now saturated with trench coats, nautically inspired knitwear, t-shirts, military boots and all manner of accessories, and is now beginning to become very thinly spread and over worked. This is certainly not to say that these items have now become unfashionable, rather it is time for change. Hold on to your military inspired items (particularly if you own a camel trench coat – a fine purchase) however, as they will remain completely timeless and transitional in the future, and set you in good stead for this new look, saving you time, money and effort. But before we get too deep into this, let’s have a peek at the fashion worlds take on The Biker Trend.

Burberry Prorsum S/S11 Runway

As you can see from the looks above, Burberry have really taken a shine to this new trend, breaking away from their well known and highly regarded trench coat staple to produce a wide range of leather pieces that suit this new trend perfectly. But you might still be wondering how military and biker trends go together. Simply put, this is just an extension or development of the basic military trend; there is still the emphasis on simple, chunky and rugged items, but they are used in a different way or mixed with other pieces that don’t necessarily fit the military trend. You could also look at it as an original trend in that it takes the stereotyped biker look and makes it infinitely more fashionable with a focus on a smarter style; more tailored, refined lines, using trousers and shirts whilst retaining the darker colour palette synonymous with the biking world.

Biker On The Runways

Of course the mainstay of this trend will be the Leather Jacket, nothing new here really, the choice is all yours regarding what style you wish to sport, as long as it isn’t one of those horrible branded, faux leather racing jackets, that only work at a race course… if you’re a racing driver. Also just because you wear full leather gear (safety first) doesn’t mean you are now fashionable; still looks too much in my opinion. I’m becoming distracted, actually being a motorcyclist and the biker trend isn’t necessarily linked. And here in fact is the key. Just as wearing military inspired clothes won’t make you a soldier, wearing a leather jacket does not make you a biker. These clothes allude to and suggest, giving you much greater flexibility in how you can model your outfits.

How To Wear

So what is the best way to tap into this new look? Personally, I would make use of the items currently on trend. Mix chunky footwear, military boots or otherwise with slim jeans or chinos (either tucked in or cuffed so they hang just above the ankle), a statement t-shirt and then your chosen leather jacket for that casual, laid back look. Keep colours fairly neutral or dark for the authentic image, using blacks, greys and whites, but if you are feeling adventurous, you could introduce more colour, maybe with a pastel jumper or cardigan, keeping in with the lighter palettes of spring but not being overly garish or in your face.
If you’re feeling really, really niche, go for the outside choice with a leather jacket that isn’t black – dark red or a very deep green perhaps. Feel free to mix in vintage pieces to give your final outfit a bit of flair, paying particular attention to accessories as these will really help to bring your outfit together and create a strong link back to the traditional biker look. You could even chuck in a paisley neckerchief or light coloured silk scarf to suggest some bohemian influence, and remember what I said about mixing in the military, your shearling/aviator jacket will work perfectly with this look to.


source: Fashionbeans;Google

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